Cage
A size-appropriate cage will have enough room for the rabbit to move around, stretch out freely, and is tall enough so that he can stand up on his hind legs without his head hitting the top of the cage. The cage should only have one storey. The bottom of the cage should be flat, and must not be lined with wired or plastic racks, as the holes would cause uneven weight distribution on the rabbit’s feet, leading to sore hocks, while also posing a risk of bone injury as the toes may get caught inside the holes. Cages with a wire door that opens from the top to bottom should be lined with a towel or pad when opened, as the rabbit’s toes may get caught between the wires when he walks out of the cage.

Water Bottle
Choose a larger water bottle to ensure the rabbit has enough water to last a full day, and routinely check for leakage to avoid getting the rabbit’s fur wet unnecessarily (wet fur may lead to skin irritation and fur loss). Wash and scrub the inside of the water bottle regularly to remove any dirt and algae buildup. If the rabbit is not keen on drinking from a bottle, consider giving water in a bowl with a heavy bottom.

Floor Covering
A rabbit’s living space must be lined with appropriate floor covering so the rabbit can walk around safely and comfortably. A slippery surface may cause sore hock, injury from slipping, or even hip dysplasia resulting in permanently splayed hind legs. Use a soft and durable cloth mat that can absorb urine to protect the rabbit’s feet from getting urine burn. Avoid hard or rough fabrics which can irritate the rabbit’s feet and cause sore hocks. Appropriate mats include disposable potty pads, mesh cushion pads known as “3D mats”, vetbeds, paper bedding and thick fabric floor mats. Avoid using wood shavings since they do not absorb water well, and can emit phenols which irritate a rabbit’s respiratory tract.

Food Bowl
Choose a heavy bowl with a wide, flat bottom. A sturdy ceramic bowl can last a long time and won’t tip over or gets chewed to pieces and accidentally swallowed (like a plastic bowl might), leading to gut obstruction.

Litter Box
With some patience and persistence, most rabbits can be litter trained. Place the litter box at the corner of the cage where the rabbit most frequently leaves his droppings. Put some bedding soaked with his urine into the litter box; the smell reminds the rabbit that this is the place to “go”. If the rabbit is peeing in every corner of the cage, use a small amount of white vinegar to wipe down the whole cage and remove the scent except for the litter box corner. Some litter boxes come with a wire or plastic rack with holes: make sure not to use it! The rack may trap urine leading to urine burn, and the rabbit’s toes can get caught in it causing broken bone. Fill the litter box with paper bedding instead, and clean it out at least once a day.

Grooming Tools
Nails should be trimmed with a specialized rabbit nail clipper at least once a month. Nails that are too long can break and bleed, and also poses a risk of scratching himself or the owner. Overgrown nails may also increase the risk of sore hocks. Brush a short-haired rabbit at least twice a week, and long-haired rabbit should be brushed daily. During shedding seasons, all rabbits regardless of hair length must be brushed thoroughly on a daily basis, since excess fur can be ingested and cause gut blockage. Metal fine tooth combs can be used for all breeds of rabbit, while needle combs and rubber massage brushes may also be used in addition to the metal comb for rabbits with long or dense fur.